Saturday, January 21

Hot or Not? Urban Camouflage

Yesterday The Cut reviewed these brick-patterned suits from Jean Paul Gaultier and Moschino's Fall 2012 menswear collections, writing, "masonry: not yet a trend, but definitely a thing." In fact, brick-patterned clothing has been "a thing" since the early twentieth century, perhaps because the pattern underscores the primary function of clothing -- namely, as shelter for the body.

In the late 1980s and 1990s, high-end fashion designers like Todd Oldham and Patrick Kelly used brick prints in their women's collections. In 1986, costume designer Adelle Lutz created "Urban Camouflage Clothing" (above) for the David Byrne comedy True Stories. As the late great costume curator Richard Martin wrote in his seminal work, Fashion and Surrealism, Lutz's designs sough to resolve the separation between clothing and the external world by making their wearer part of their environment.

In 1929, the Italian painter Giorgio de Chirico adapted this architectural element for costume and decor designs for the Ballets Russes' production Le Bal, covering the legs of female dancers with brick-printed hosiery, while Marcel Rochas used the design for this woman's trompe l'oeil jacket in the 1930s (above).

Brick clothing (and people) also appear in Surrealist artworks from the mid-twentieth century, perhaps most notably Man Ray's Imaginary Portrait of D. A. F. de Sade, II (above, 1940). Today, the Chinese artist Liu Bolin (below) camouflages his clothes and himself into his surroundings to protest artistic censorship by the Chinese government, who shut down his studio in 2005. (Because you can't suppress what you can't see, right?)

Now that we've had our history lesson, we want to know:

S.S.W. Asks: What are your thoughts on Gaultier's and Moschino's latest menswear designs? Would you wear brick-printed suits? Comment below or on Facebook or Twitter.



Superchic Hippie said...

Just loved!!

Ellie Lee said...

Wow; those brick suits look so good on the runway! Unfortunately; I do believe I'd stop and stare if I happen to see anyone out and about on the street wearing that!

badBarbara said...

I loved the brick clothing as art photos! So cool!

Emily said...

I love that black and white brick-print jacket, and the idea of hosiery definitely has appeal, but the suits just look tacky to me. Maybe I'm not Avant Garde Fashionista enough?

fluff and fripperies said...

Y'know, I think I would! xo

Tanvi said...

I like it!!!

♡ from ©

Chanel Tonè said...

Hmm. . . I know fasion is a form of art that is all about expression but I'm having a hard time grasping this concept in terms of wearing it as clothing.

Jaime @ La vie...J'aime said...

the pic of the suit and the wall is so cool!

Josie said...

I don't think so -- it's a bit much for me!
xo Josie

Jana ★ said...

Cool pics!! thanks for your comment on my blog :D
Now I´m follower, you can be my follower if you want
Happy Monday

Beauty Follower said...